Tailoring

Safari Jackets - Germain Tailors - Hong Kong - Shanghai

A safari jacket or bush jacket is a garment originally designed for the purpose of going on safari in the African bush. Similar lightweight, light-coloured uniforms were also worn by European soldiers serving in warm climates from the 19th century and, little altered, throughout World War II. They typically featured epaulettes, pleated pockets, belts..etc

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In 1936, author and adventurer Ernest Hemingway designed a 'bush jacket' which was made by Willis & Geiger. And in the 1960s and 1970s safari suits became fashionable thanks to designers versions for men and women by, for example, French designers Ted Lapidus and Yves Saint Laurent.

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Sources : Wikipedia

Casual Tailored Shirts - Hong Kong - Shanghai

Our spring-summer 2017 collection has no ties, and no formal shirts. We introduce three new tailored casual shirts to our catalog:

- One-piece Collar

- Camp Collar

- Reversed Collar

Prefered with pure linen or linen blend fabrics, those new designs are available made-to-measure at our Shanghai and Hong Kong shops, or during our trunk shows in Paris. Here are some descriptions.

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The "one-piece-collar" shirt is the perfect bridge between dressed shirts and casual shirts. The collar and the collar-stand are made of a one-piece panel, which results to a perfect roll, and a softer look. It is a subtle, delicate touch of cool, and it can be worn with or without a tie.

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A camp shirt or lounge shirt is a loose, straight-cut, short-sleeved shirt or blouse with a simple placket front opening and a "camp collar" - a one-piece collar (no collar band) that can be worn open and spread or closed at the neck with a button and loop. It usually has a straight hemmed bottom falling at hip level, not intended to be tucked into trousers. It is often the base for fancier fabrics such as bowling shirts, aloha shirts, or various other Hawaiian/tropically inspired weaves and patterns.

This collar is perfect for those who want to wear a suit, without tie. Beach wedding, garden party, you name it.

Raglan Sleeve

This winter season, you will find a lot of raglans in our collection. A raglan sleeve is a type of sleeve whose distinguishing characteristic is to extend in one piece fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam from underarm to collarbone giving the garment a relatively undefined look.

Picture from Tailor and Cutter 1939

Picture from Tailor and Cutter 1939

It is named after Lord Raglan, who is said to have worn a coat with this style of sleeve after the loss of his arm in the Battle of Waterloo. The Raglan sleeve was invented by coat producer Aquascutum for Lord Raglan to allow him room to use his sword in battle. It gave greater movement to the wearer, instead of the usual sleeve head which was prefixed.

The raglan mid-length sleeve is also a popular undergarment (worn under the jersey) for baseball teams in the United States. We also made a sweater version.